Heroes of the Deep Blue

Originally published in Malibu magazine El Porto is the perfect Santa Monica Bay surf break, though not because a coincidence of underwater geography makes thewaves there a little bit bigger and more consistent than most local breaks. That helps, but to me it’s so perfect because its inherent contradictions incorporate our strange, dichotomous relationship to […]

The Monster Out of the Box

Sandow-Birk

Originally published in The Surfer’s Journal A Sandow Birk Omnibus THE GUEST OF HONOR IS DRESSED IN SLACKS, SENSIBLE SHOES, and a button-down shirt that was possibly ironed. Handsome in a retro, California beach boy way, with hair neater than a dry gin martini, he looks more like someone who stepped out of a Jan and […]

Santa Barbara Modern

SantaBarbaraModern

Originally published in The Surfer’s Journal (photos are ©Morgan Maassen) MORGAN MAASSEN drives onto a crowded Stearns Wharf and nearly takes out a half dozen pedestrians on his approach. Not because he’s aggro, but because he’s enraptured telling me about Sandspit, the notorious break just a strong 9-iron chip across a lagoon from the end […]

Shaun Tomson – Magic and Loss

shaun-tomson

Originally published in Huck Magazine There was a tipping point in surfing history when the door of possibility was busted open wide. And Shaun Tomson dealt the final blow. As the first South African World Champion, his transgressive energy helped legitimate surfing as a professional sport. But the determination he showed back then was nothing […]

Olivia Wilde

Originally published in Flaunt The looks and all that shit can be handled. On any given night, you can bump into 50 women with movie star/model looks (who may actually be movie stars or models) just walking blindfolded down Abbot-Kinney—where Olivia Wilde conveniently (for her, since she lives around the corner) meets for an early […]

Future Man

Jim-Evans

Originally printed in Surfer’s Journal Take Las Virgenes Road from the 101 Freeway and drive into the heart of Malibu Canyon past hoary Mulholland and keep going to Piuma Road. Then, take a left and climb through the rolling hills up toward the mountain peaks and find Las Flores Canyon Road, the downward glide of […]

What’s Wrong With Wes Anderson?

Originally published in the LA Weekly IF WE WERE BACK IN Wes Anderson’s native Texas, the plate of food he’s showing little mercy might be called the Morning Roundup or the Wildcatter’s Special. Unfortunately for my wallet, we’re in a booth at Kate Mantilini on Wilshire Boulevard in Beverly Hills and here it’s called Barry’s Breakfast and costs […]

Something Wicked: Author Richard Lange Is Done With Rejection

Originally published in LA Weekly Lately, I’ve been spending time in some pretty far-flung places — Paris, Indochina, the Alps, the Deep South, England, the apocalyptic future (isn’t it always?). You see, I read a lot. So after a steady diet of sprawling novels with fancy conceits and exotic locations, it felt like a sort […]

The Heart of Darkness — Jerry Stahl

I’m deep into a harrowing Diane Sawyer special about hillbillies in Kentucky (a cautionary tale about the pre- and post-natal effects of Mountain Dew if ever there was one) on a cold and stormy night in early March, when something slams into my front door, causing me to jump off the couch. Opening the door, […]

LA People 2009: Fucking With Drew Barrymore

Originally published in the LA Weekly Drew Barrymore loves fucking. Mostly it happens when she gets excited. And she gets excited about a lot of stuff — movies, music, historical icons, roller derby, challenging herself. She likes fucking so much, she starts up with it before the interview. Like when I present her with an ancient Lou […]